They call me…

maybe slightly obsessed.

So here’s the deal. Two weekends ago, I was out of town so I couldn’t go climbing. This past weekend, I didn’t leave the house for three days.

But, this weekend, we have sometime, and it’s time to detox, so there will be climbing. And hopefully two days of it. So I made a goal last week. I had a week to train on the hangboard, and my goal is to send my project (V5) on Saturday. Granted, I haven’t trained the past two days, and I honestly think that I can stick the moves. If I get up the nerve to go for them. That’s where I’ve been running into trouble. Went solo bouldering (aka to the gym that is the bouldering area here in the winter), and landed funny from the second to last move of a V2. I’ve always fought some mental block with bouldering outside and not wanting to get hurt, which got worse last spring when I messed my ankle up, and that’s what’s been holding me back–and that landing didn’t help.. I want to do everything static, everything as controlled as possible. I’d rather not fall, which means I’ll drop off before a move that I really can do, but has the potential of a fall. It’s finally gotten to the point where it’s starting to piss me off, especially after four days of hangboard workouts and knowing that the problem is in my head, not my body.

So I made my goal, and I posted it on Facebook, hoping that that would keep me accountable. Only that’s all I’ve been posting about lately, as I haven’t been in the mood to post stuff about school. That’s why I might seem slightly (more so than normal) crazy.


Yup, it’s that time of the year. Oh, and please forgive the spelling errors–the O key fell off my keyboard and I’ve yet to decide what I’m going to do to fix it, although taking the O key off my old macbook is looking like the best option right now…

My resolution: Climb at least once a week. Outside.

Yeah, yeah, I know how sad this sounds, but it’s an improvement for someone who hasn’t climbed in over a month, maybe a month and a half…

The Season

And lo, the crash pads moved into the truck for the winter, for celebrate–the season has begun!


So last night, I was sitting down to write a rather maudlin post about missing climbing and missing home and missing my friends when I realized that I didn’t want to feel that way anymore. I threw the crash pads in my truck and was headed out to the desert. Then, awesomeness happened. Five second before I got on the freeway, my friend texted and invited me to join them on the other side of town, for a “local” spot. So I went. It’s technically closer than the good bouldering, but the drive in isn’t paved. Most of it isn’t graded. And there’s a good chunk of it that isn’t really a road–you drive down the wash. But the solitude is worth it. Maybe fifteen miles, max, from the city center, you can’t see any of it anymore. All you see is a canyon and volcanic rock and the sunset. It was friggin awesome.

It wasn’t without its casualties–mostly my skin. :) I got my first flapper in ages, and the base of my thumb is still pretty raw from this spike that made itself known in this crack I was trying to jam… didn’t get off the ground there…

Sure, this place isn’t the quality of the other side of town. It’s volcanic, not sandstone. The approach is one of those that you don’t do in your average rental car–I wouldn’t take anything without four wheel drive and decent clearance out there, just because I wouldn’t want to get stuck. Because it’s not climbed a lot, it needs cleaning, and the rock is pretty rough on your skin–some of the edges are close to razor sharp. But, the best part of it is that we can escape here when the park and the basin get crowded with everyone taking advantage of our awesome season. There’s some cool, powerful, tensiony cave problems that I want to go back and try–it felt so good to let the raw power fly.

I had this really cool, hopefully inspirational ending, but wordpress ate it. I don’t know if there are any real people out there reading this, but if you are, I hope you get a chance to get out on rock and savor the feeling of it against your skin, the feeling of the power that you have within you.



This one night, I tried to pinch plastic…

And lo, I failed. The extensor hood still hurt.

And climbing this weekend… fell through. Oh well. At least the weather is getting perfect here, and my friends almost have their garage wall done, so soon, we will be climbing there!I might even be able to get them to teach me more about setting…



This time last year, I couldn’t imagine living without climbing at least three times week. Well, it’s been three weeks yet again. Post exam saw a week with climbing three out of seven days, and that was amazing. Then, i had school stuff and a trip home, so that clears me somewhat, right? Plus, I’m trying to be good about hangboarding, at least as when I have the psyche. But, that pinky tendon I posted about last time hasn’t cleared up, so I haven’t really been psyched. I don’t know exactly what I did–it’s related to tripping up my stairs and slamming my fist hard into the concrete. Based in where the pain is, as well as what movements hurt, I think I tweaked one of the lumbrical tendons. It’s not as bad as messing up a pulley, but it still hurts, and it’s on my writing hand, so it’s constantly getting moved around, and that’s no fun. Taping does help, so I don’t think it’s super major, but I’m scared of hurting it again–and crimps make it hurt worse.
So that’s the state of climbing affairs right now. We got a ton of rain last night–over two inches in this last 36 hours–so that puts at least a two day hiatus on climbing outside, so I think I’m going to keep resting the tendon, and hope it gets feeling better.
Here’s to a great winter season!

Edit: one of the perks of my world-.lots of docs. Asked, and it’s most likely just a strain, which makes sense.

I am filthy dirty and extremely happy

There are blisters on my feet and a flapper on my hand.
My sunburn got a sunburn, when all I wanted was a tan.
There’s grime under my fingertips and sand between my toes,
And that’s not even counting the dirt that’s up my nose.
I think I tweaked a ligament and there’s a scab there on my leg.
On the bony part of my arm, there’s a bruise that feels somewhat like an egg.
Maybe I should have titled this filthy dirty and extremely tired,
But the minute I did that, I’d find myself extremely wired.
I really should go study now, or maybe even eat,
But all of a sudden, I find myself rather beat.
So instead of being productive,
I find the thought of sleeping on my couch quite conductive.

Nap time!!!

Edit: nap time turned into 12 hours of sleep. Yum.